I like exploring in computer games, music, cricket, drawing and pizza and sharing those with people. Oh and I also inherited the name Sleepydwagonman too ! The site is a work in progress at the moment but it's getting there, features will come in over time !
How are things going with you all ? Hope you’re doing ok. As for me, I’ve had another couple of runs to the hospitals (routine stuff) and I’m getting started on the rehab. Life’s had to change a little bit down here, as you’d expect from being mostly down an arm. I should get most of the mobility back, although I can feel that the left wrist is still quite delicate. Oh and I’ve been told that playing games can also be a decent part of rehab activity.
How’s that ! Not sure if I quite believe that but I’ll go with it. Talking of the games, I got a care package through …
That’s a plushie from the Intel people who were a key sponsor for the September Creator Meetups event. There’s a get well soon card with a lovely message. A Creator Meetups coaster and my red dwagon there is sporting a event sash (actually wristband, don’t tell the dwagon). There’s also a t-shirt, although that’s not in the picture.
The care package was a lovely thing to open today. I’ll talk more about the event some time but for now, I’ll keep it to just mentioning the Intel part … they were one of the main sponsors, which helps to make events like the last Creator North happen. We need their support and it’s hugely appreciated. I think they (could have been Asus too) were running the PC speed build thing at the latest event which was fun to keep an eye on. I didn’t take part in that … I’m excessively careful when I’m building my PCs so speed running them isn’t something I’d do but it was good to peek at.
Talking of PC building … it’s shameless shill time ! Bunny is an AMD build but I figured I owe Intel a mention, both due to the care package and for them supporting the events that they do. Disclosure note – the care package is a gift, attendance of the event was paid for by me, Pumpkin PC (about to mention) was fully bought by me, no other compensation has been received. I.e. this is an unprompted post.
So I mentioned that my current build is AMD, my longest serving PC is still Pumpkin built Oct 31 2011, going until July 2019. Pumpkin did really well and was super reliable. I don’t look for extreme speed in a PC, that tends to double the price for not really that much extra speed. I look for a build that I can put together, set up and then forget about for years while I watch videos and game on it. And Pumpkin excelled at that. The only technical issues it had was a Corsair power supply popping and the motherboard sound hardware popping.
And that was the trend with Intel for a very long time. They had a performance edge on AMD until recently but what they excelled at was lazy reliable performance. They could do what they do incredibly reliably and without fuss. Hassle free computing is exactly what I go for. So why did I go away from the Sandy Bridge i5-2500k powered Pumpkin ? It was struggling for performance in games due to only having 8GB of system memory. It was approaching time to change in 2019 and I’m glad I did because we all know what happened in 2020. Almost 8 years service is a phenomenal amount of time for a PC to be properly good for.
What would I get if I went Intel now ? Here’s a Partpicker link. That’s pretty much the same bits as the new Bunny PC except for the Intel core in there. The prices are about the same too. The Intel chip has a lot more cores than my AMD Ryzen 7 9800x3d at a count of 16+8 vs 8 doubling to 16 threads for the AMD. Not entirely sure what the 24+8 means …
That’s another thing actually … The Partpicker list there is fairly arbitrary although I can vouch for case, RAM, psu, graphics and SSD. I’d need to know the difference between the P and E cores. And that’s where the research comes in. It’s a lot of money to invest, gotta be sure you’re investing in the right bits.
How about me though ?
The hospital visit last week was to get an initial follow up and they changed my cast as well. Oh and I may have hit a food allergy event too. So … good visit, bad consequences for me because I didn’t realise that the cookies I’d been munching and the giant Twix all had soya within and I can’t tolerate soya. Oh well. But I did get a slightly lighter cast, some basic physio exercises and advice that playing computer games on controllers would help with the rehab. Oh and I don’t need the arm sling any more.
Good results both there and a local hospital visit with a very lovely physio who gave me a few more exercises for the rehab and an injection of hope in getting all better. Having a little hope is ultra valuable.
How about that gaming though ?
I’ve had a couple of Truck Game sessions so far. It’s a little awkward because I use a Xbox style controller. The left hand needs to cover the d-pad for set and forget options like lights and wipers. The middle finger does the brakes, first finger is left indicator and thumb does steering. Awkward but possible. The drawback with the two Truck Games is that when you start a run, you really need to finish it and my State of Being at the moment means that when I hit a certain point, I will need to STOP pretty much immediately which isn’t compatible with having to finish the runs off.
And then there’s Elite Dangerous, which actually got me started doing two handed typing again.
I use a Thrustmaster Hotas X for Elite (linky). It’s a basic Hotas as they go. You can get a lot fancier and expensive than that (search VKB and Virpil) but the Hotas X has been solid, reliable and above all comforyable for me to play Elite with. The pitch, roll and yaw are all done on the right hand stick. The left hand throttle has the forward and back and a rocker arm I use for left and right. My left thumb uses buttons for up, down and boost.
I’m not fluent with the Hotas yet in Elite but I had enough for a short(ish) travel session of 54 jumps (a session would normally be around 200 jumps). I can’t fully grip the throttle side yet, just half of it. It’s enough for travel where you can’t go up/down/left/right, not for more fine control although I could manage the external camera which is how I get all the screenies.
Oh and the big bonus …. because I do a few things very quickly, like renaming screenshots, I started two handed typing again. Big result there. Oh and Elite offers up interesting places to land at where you can often set up a good view.
I better close up there …
I’m having to do a few changes. My snacking is much reduced (which is good) and I’m adjusting to having less in my left hand. I’ve been ticking off a few IRL achievements like being able to lace up the boots, although I still have very little grip strength and even less carrying strength. Haven’t attempted long sleeves yet or the laundry (weekend thing). I need to do more of the physio exercises to get mobility back.
I’m doing ok and am fully independent here in the house, within my limits. I’m very low on energy still but it has been good being in some of the games again.
Oh and the online communities I hang around have been wonderful and have sent a lot of love my way. It’s vastly appreciated.
Credit to Purr.In.Ink there, they’re always coming out with these cute little cartoons with the best vibes.
Hi all, first of all … why would you want to do that ?
There are lots of manufacturers and sites that will happily assemble and set up a PC for you. So why would you want to build your own ?
The answer for me is very simple. I get total choice on what’s going into the machine for both the components and the software. I can put a bit of extra money in one thing that I think is important and make a sacrifice in something else that I don’t think will matter. I can future proof without breaking the bank. And probably the most important, it gets set up without any of the garbage software that the original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) will preinstall that either doesn’t go away completely when you uninstall it or it comes back again. It’s also bundled stuff like the malware that masquerades as branded anti-virus security software.
You could even choose to go away from the Microsoft Windows ecosystem and go to Linux now. That’s more viable, although I’ll come back to that in a while.
The most important thing is to do as much research as possible before you buy. Retails and online sites will be very keen to put discounts on selected models in their range. If you get tempted by those, ask yourself why the discount is happening. Is the discount because they have a stack of stock they can’t shift out of the warehouse because no one buys it ? Or are they dumping stock because it’s just gone obsolete and end of line. I’ve actually taken advantage of that for my last two laptops, they were both acquired on heavy end of line discounts and happened to be specifications that met my requirement.
This is probably the time for … Disclosure note ! All the decisions for the bits here were mine, I paid for everything, the companies mentioned have no idea who I am and no approaches had been made prior to selection of the bits. (Outside of the usual Overclockers and Scan we’ve got your email in our database robot marketing emails)
The catalyst for this post is to introduce the new build PC that appeared here over Easter. It’s the BunnyBox, named for when it was built again :-D. It follows Pumpkin, assembled on Oct 31 2011 and Meltdown, built on the hottest July day of 2019. But the main aim is to tell all of you reading that : You can do this too. Yes. You can. If you can handle a screwdriver and have a fairly light touch, you can build your home brew PC as well.
The key thing is to do all of the research before you part with any money. I have to admit to making a few mistakes with the BunnyBox, some of which were down to not researching properly, some were trusting the reviews a bit too much. Some mistakes and problems were making some bad assumptions. Oh and I may have forgotten to add the system memory to the order and had to hang around Stoke on Trent a while so they could fetch some out of the warehouse.
But the absolute key thing is : It’s YOUR money. YOUR decision to commit to spending it. Don’t ever feel pressured about spending YOUR money unless you’re absolutely comfortable in doing so. That goes for any pressure you may feel to up the spec when you don’t feel that’s affordable or presents value that you’re comfortable with.
Here’s the BunnyBox spec from Partpicker (linky). Partpicker is actually a really decent site to go to when researching the bits that go together to make a PC. They cut their selections down to what’s compatible. So if you choose an AMD cpu, they won’t show motherboards made for Intel chips. When I updated the list for the memory, it didn’t show memory that the board couldn’t handle. So it’s a handy thing to start from to see what’s out there and quickly get a list of bits.
That’s your motherboard, which everything plugs in to. There are different connectors for everything and they only go in one way around, so the only mistake you can make is to press too hard and break something that way. Don’t worry about that. Modern computer electronics are far more robust than when I was a lad too. It used to be that TTL (Transistor Transistor Logic) chips would break if you touched them wrong, electro static discharge wrist bands used to be required so you wouldn’t zap the bits. I don’t believe you need those these days. (Please no sue me if something doesn’t work ! 😀 ).
The first thing to go in was a 4TB Solid State Device (SSD) storage device. This is an nVME drive, which is the faster one. It’s an M2 format, which is a small card like a stick of chewing gum. Don’t eat it, too crunchy and expensive 😀
Here comes my first error, because I bought the more expensive one with a heatsink on. Cos … Meltdown’s similar SSD gave no problems in almost 6 years but it did run warm. The mistake was not researching that the board came with its own heatsink. I didn’t need to buy the one fixed to the drive. Oh well, coulda saved some cash.
I bought a single SSD because I was assuming that BunnyBox would be running a version of the Linux Operating System and didn’t know how that handled multiple drives. So I bought a bigger (4TB) cheaper one for significantly less than a quicker one of the same size.
Techie note – you’ll see PCIe, that’s the interface of how the components talk to each other. If you look at a computer architecture diagram, the wiring will connect blocks together mostly with the Peripheral Component Interconnect express (PCIe). It’s express cos it’s the considerably improved Mk2 version of PCI, which first got into PCs in the 90s. M2 SSD drives will show a Gen 4, Gen 5 and if you read this in a few years, probably Gen 6 and beyond. The newer versions offer improved transfer rates which might give you a benefit if you’re doing heavy data crunching but I figured I could save pennies (to go into better other bits) by not noticing going for a cheaper ultra fast drive.
That’s the memory going in. That picture actually shows the stick the wrong way around, because I wanted to draw attention to the notch that’s in the bottom of the stick. That’s a polarising notch and makes sure the memory goes in the correct way around because the polarising notch is slightly off the centre. When it’s in right, the grabby arms to the sides of the socket will do their grabby arm thing and close up. You might need to rest the board on something very solid here so it doesn’t flex when you put the memory in. Use the anti-static bag it comes in between Board and Solid Thing to protect everything.
Something else to note here is the sockets to use. There are 4 on the board there, so I could add more in later. However if you look real close (left side of the socket) and can read upside down, you’ll see DDR_A1, DDR_A2, DDR_B1 and DDR_B2 with a “First” beside them. Processors can gobble up 128 bits of data at a time, however the memory sticks send out only 64 bits at a time. So you double them up to get full performance. But they only work doubled up if they’re in the correct sockets. The board manual will tell you which sockets are best. If you put the memory in sockets DDR_A1 and DDR_B2 (mismatched sockets) then your new PC may not boot up at all.
Pardon the messiness of my bedsheet ! The camera picks up all of the dust and I don’t think I have the hand capacity to edit it out :-D. That’s the box, it’s an absolute unit of a Montech King 95 Pro. The 6 fans there are utterly silent when the machine is on and have the gloriness of already being assembled and cabled in to the box. You might see a bit of ducting below and there is more ducting above. The power supply goes in the back and the motherboard sits on that vertical plate. I’m extremely impressed with this case, it has exceptional build quality, it was easy to fit the All In One Cooler in the box above there and the box can fit the biggest coolers. However, it’s also a massive unit, comes in at 13kg and was a pricey £125. Honestly, with the build quality and 6 included silent fans, probably well worth that.
That’s the power supply going in there. Two things here … don’t skimp on the quality, so extra money went into the Lian Li supply there. I have a few power supply makers on my list of shame, Lian Li is actually a new one for me but they have a stellar reputation. The other is to get a big enough one that it can take it easy with the components in the box. So a 750W supply taking it easy at a 500W draw will last so much longer than a 500W supply straining to consistently deliver the same 500W.
It’s a false economy to go cheap on the power supply. Getting a good name one (like Lian Li) will lead to a more reliable and stable machine. And if it breaks, standards like 80+ GOLD means that it won’t break anything else when it … explodes. Not like a friend’s PC which broke all of its components when the cheap no name inadequate power supply melted. PSUs don’t explode … but don’t take one apart to find out as there is 115/240V in there, definitely don’t mess with the big round capacitors, those are the bits that can go boom.
That’s a modular power supply. The older ones came with all of their cables attached to ends on the inside, so they had a mass of unused cable to hide. A modular supply has those sockets there, so you only plug in the cables you require. Less untidy.
That’s skipping ahead a little to the motherboard installed in the box with the processor in there too. The box there is an ATX format box, with ATX dating back to the 90s. Literally IBM AT PC extended. There are newer formats like ITX out there but ATX has been consistent for decades. There is a sockets backplane on the bottom right and the board is secured by an array of small screws.
That’s an AMD Ryzen 7 9800x3d and BunnyBox has one of those due to a big discount that put it in an unbeatable price / performance bracket. I also have a lot of wariness about Intel at the moment because their quality and part resilience has gone downhill lately due to decisions made by their management.
The installation is a bit different again this time around. That’s an AMD AM5 socket. The lever on the left is for a so-called Zero Insertion Force socket. (It’s not zero force!) You use the lever to allow the socket to open and slide the ickle processor into the socket. Again, it’s polarized with the little dot you’ll see on the lower right corner to make sure you put it in the right way round. When you lower the retaining bracket, the black cover seen previously pops off and the lever then locks it in to place.
We can see a couple of black plastic things there too, every processor needs to be cooled because they’ll kick out a lot more heat when they’re busy. The first cooler this machine had was an All In One (AIO) Cooler by Thermalright. These work by having a heat block that clamps on top of the processor using the hooks on the plastic things above and below. The AIO is then connected to a radiator with a couple of pipes filled with cooling fluid. There’s a pump that circulates the fluid and fans to cool the radiator. It’s a lot easier to install coolers on the AM5 generation of socket than the previous AM4 generation.
That’s everything together ! Not quite, because there are buttons and plugs and lights and sockets to wire up too. The PC case has 2 older USB, 1 new USB-C, a couple of audio sockets, a reset button, a power button and a power light. These all plug into sockets on the board, the motherboard manual will have the where to’s here.
But that is actually it. The graphics card is in there as well. Note how close it is to the processor, I’ll come back to that. Also note how close the memory is on the right there. (Foreshadowing anyone ? 😀 )
The next thing is to take a long solid drink, clean up the mess from any blood sacrifices that might have happened along the way. Depending on the build quality of the components, you might have picked up a cut or two. Cheap cases have many more sharp edges. I only got a very minor cut this time around for the somewhat required blood sacrifice. It keeps the Machine Spirit happy :-D.
Plan A for BunnyBox was to abandon Microsoft and go over to Linux. I attempted using Bazzite Linux, as the reviews and things written about it were favourable. It’s worth checking out Linux, it’s free so you lose nothing but a bit of time in exchange for learning about the alternatives that are out there.
This lasted 1 day.
He he, overly dramatic moment there. The machine actually fired up and installed easily first time but I removed it from the machine because I was getting terrible performance with older games like Idle Champions and Motorsport Manager. The Steam platform is starting to get more games designed for Linux but can also support Windows only games by using the Proton translation library. That wasn’t working so good for me, possibly because the Bazzite install didn’t have the info to allow it to properly use the brand new to market nVidia 5060Ti 16GB I bought. And because I couldn’t see how to install the new drivers, I put Bazzite in the bin and went straight back to the known entity of Windows with a WIndows 11 install.
You live, you learn, you add more knowledge.
So I pop Windows in there, install the Horizon Zero Dawn in there and run its benchmark. All is good. Temperatures go up but it gives a result of 160 fps wibblies which was up from the 71 fps wibblies that Meltdown could achieve. It’s an older game but has a good benchmark for testing purposes.
I then look at the BOINC science sums application and … the temperatures rapidly go off into orbit and as AMD Ryzens do, the machine goes into thermal protection where it slows itself down to around a tenth of its potential performance. This is where the panic comes in. I’ll do a bit TLDR there (this post has gone LONG!) and say that I think the AIO cooler wasn’t taking any heat away from the processor, the pipes and radiator were cold. So I swapped it out for …
Yeah. I went back to what I know and bought the most massive air cooler from a good make that I could get hold of at short notice. That’s a Noctua NH-D15 and while it is a fantastic cooler, I did make a couple of errors when choosing it. The fan there is a massive 140mm, there are supposed to be two but the other one clashes on the memory sticks. The cooler is installed off axis as well, about 7mm above where it should be, because it clashes with the graphics card below.
So while Partpicker will give you a LOT of info about whether everything will fit together, it doesn’t know everything. I don’t know everything. I still make errors like that by (going back to the start) not doing all of the research. I checked whether the cooler would fit in the case … not whether it would fit around the rest of the components.
But it all works, BunnyBox is rock solid so far, it’s an absolute powerhouse running the performance hungry Star Wars Outlaws with no frame drops on very high detail so I’m a happy little bunnydwagon here tapping this post into it.
I think that’s where I’d better leave it before I end up posting tomorrow instead of today. I’ll leave you with :
You got this, you can do it too. Read about what you’re planning to put together, use hardware review sites (like Tomshardware) and borrow the specs from their testing rigs. Learn about the bits and it’ll help you out when you have the screwdriver in hand and assembling.
Take it easy, take your time. Don’t panic if things don’t turn on immediately. Just check that all the wires are where they are supposed to be. Repeat your steps if you have to, measure twice install once that kind of thing.
And compare notes with your local geeky techy community too. We’ll love to gossip about components and tempt people into buying new bits and pieces. Just remember that it’s your money, your budget, stick to those limits. If you’re not sure about what you’re about to do, hold off and learn a bit more. Computer bits only get cheaper and better if you wait.
May your Machine Spirits be contented little beasties.
Super battle droid today, which leads me to talking techie stuff 🙂
I think I’ve mentioned this before … I’m going to be upgrading the tech at some point in the not that distant future. First up … to follow today’s advent model being a droid :
New phone ! My current phone (a Pixel 4) has been properly excellent. It does all I need it to do, it’s really surprised me with how good the night sight camera mode is and the only way it gets intrusive is by nagging me to enable to back up modes that’ll have all my pictures going off to Google to be harvested by whatever AI they say isn’t going to be trained on our pictures (but you know it will be).
There are 3 things pointing me towards an upgrade :
Memory size – I do like taking pictures (and copying them through from camera) and the memory is filling up;
Battery life – it’s 5 years old now and I think the battery is degrading
Contract – it’s 5 years old now 😀 and my contract was completed a while ago.
No, it’ll be an Android phone because I don’t want to have my phone subject to Apple’s policy on forced hardware obsolescence and whether or not we own our devices. Talking of that …
My iPad Mini 2 (that’s probably 10 years old, it’s done well) looks like it’s only good for being a Kindle app thing now. It’s asking for an update to iOS 12.7, it can’t handle the latest iOS and therefore I can’t update its browser or most of the other apps to the current versions. So it’s now useless as a portable computing device, outside of being an excellent e-reader device.
If I do upgrade the iPad, it’ll be the same again because the Mini size is a good size. The display is easily readable even with my deteriorating eyes (I am old, hear my roar. It’s pain from the latest back twinge) and it’s more compact than the full size ones. Compact is good.
Might have to change that in the car though. (Gosh, this post is actually flowing from device to device, never saw that coming)
The issue with the car is that it’s a bit low. It’s challenged by the larger speed ramps around here, so I really don’t want to take it to less paved places if I ever do the stargazing thing properly. (Gonna need to arrange some away from home storage for that I think)
I’m actually looking a bit at the Lexus LBX again, it actually has a somewhat usable boot. Other than that though, I do greatly like the 2 pedal driving of an auto box and the Toyota/Lexus hybrids mesh very well with how I like to drive. The gearbox brain aligns with how I want the car to respond when I change the throttle input. But I might need to look at something bigger. No real solid idea of what to get next though and that era of The Last Car is looming (when they ban sales of cars with petrol engines and everyone without the ability to charge an electric car is stuffed).
Car as tech ? Definitely a thing these days. It’s a long time since I drove a car possibly without any transistors in (the Fiesta didn’t even have a radio). Now it’s Bluetooth, drive by wire, brake by wire, electric throttle, two motor generators, all the engine management, a number of display screens, memory seat and all the rest of the tech in the car. There’s probably more computing power in there than my PCs even going to the turn of the century.
And there’s the next swing in something something techie to upgrade !
The other impending forced obsolescence thing that’s looming is the end of support for Windows 10. We’ll need to hop up to Windows 11 by that point because all the bugs that Microsoft didn’t sort out in Windows 10 before end of support will become active liabilities in our PCs that will most definitely be exploited by individuals and organisations who are able to get their stuff into our machines.
I’ve had malware affect me adversely three times :
First Acer laptop, which acquired keyloggers from something associated with the Eve Online website. That saw my log in credentials getting stolen and temporary loss of account. The Eve admin people retrieved that but it did lead to the compromise of a lot of my passwords from that time.
Something nasty got in from a website, which got past the User Permission thingy popup, murdered Defender like it wasn’t there and it was corrupting my browsing, serving ads etc. That needed a system restore to fix.
Third goes way back … when a piece of malware called Blaster was fully capable of scanning the internet to find a vulnerable machine, uploading itself and infecting that machine within fifteen minutes of it being connected to the internet. Yep. This happened on a machine I was setting up with a completely fresh Windows XP install, it was able to get in and infect before anti-virus could be installed to stop it. I saw the install due to the Zonealarm (remember that ?) firewall popping up with an outgoing connection request.
My current PC, Meltdown, has done well with a Ryzen 5 3600 processor and an upgrade to a 3060Ti and bigger SSD since install. But it was struggling a little bit with the more open areas of Star Wars Outlaws and that plus that looming Windows 10 out of support is making me think I need to retire a Windows install that dates back to Oct 2011 and Windows 7 in Pumpkin and replace it with … This is what I’m looking at :
AMD Ryzen 5 again, it’s a good combination of economic to buy and the power on the chip. I’ll get 64 GB of memory this time and couple it to one of the 5060Ti graphics cards. Which means waiting until they become affordable sometime after they come out in Jan. I’ll debate until purchase whether I go for one Solid State Device (SSD) drive or two :
One SSD – it keeps things simple. But … an SSD kinda wears out over time and not in the same way as physical wear to bearings will eventually kill the old magnetic platter based drives. Each time data is written to an SSD, that takes a little bit of life out of it. Too much of that and it starts to sacrifice its total storage capacity. The 5 year old one in Meltdown that has Windows on it is still doing well and has all of its bits available but the CrystaldiskInfo application is telling me that it’s down to 57% health, which I think is based on how much it’s been writing, erasing and rewriting bits of itself.
Two SSD – one smaller one for Windows, one whopper for games. The idea is that the little one gets rewritten a lot by whatever Windows does, while the whopper for games just looks out for data storage (textures and graphics and voices are big) and doesn’t get rewritten as much.
Apparently my boot disk has had 46,572 GB happen to it and it’s just a 464.7GB drive. So each memory bit it contains has been rewritten on average of 100 times over 5 years of operation. Maybe. I might not be interpreting that right.
I think that’s it for me for tonight. Mass Effect Legendary completed downloading and I’m tempted to dive into it when I should be giving a dodgy shoulder a break.
It’s been good to be back into popping these natter chats in for you all 🙂
Hang on, I haven’t done anything rash with money … yet …
We might hit that as we go into what I’m about to launch into … Hopefully not that deep but let’s see how far it goes.
One thing wasn’t making sense to me yesterday with the camera specifications. If a lower f number for the aperture is better, what’s the advantage of getting a mirrorless camera with a lens that goes down to f4.0 over a mobile phone camera that was taking pictures at f1.7 aperture and the little Ixus that was going to f3.6 aperture. Lower number better right ?
And then I realised that I wasn’t talking like for like. The phone camera is the smallest, the Ixus camera is in the middle and the mirrorless camera is a bit of a whopper. Time to look at numbers :
Pixel 4 has 2 main cameras. Camera 1 is 12.2 megapixels with aperture f1.7 and the metadata told me it was a focal length of 4mm with a 35mm number of 27mm (I think they compare everything to a 35mm camera standard). Camera 2 is 16 MP over a 50mm telephoto sensor with aperture f2.4 and a 2x optical zoom. The Northern Light pic would have been with the Camera 1. Oh and the resolution is 96 dots per inch with each pixel being 1 micrometer (0.000001m) so the sensor will be 4mm across.
(note to geeky tendency readers – run a check over numbers as you do them to see if they make sense. A 27mm sensor in a phone doesn’t feel right, a 4mm sensor feels right)
The Ixus 265 has a 15.2MP sensor with 180 dots per inch resolution. The focal length is quoted as 4.5mm to 54mm (the lens comes in and out on a motor) for 35mm numbers of 25-300mm. The f numbers for the aperture go from f3.6 to f7.0. It does actually have 2.5 stop image stabilisation … (Spec sheet link) The sensor is 1/2.3 inches which is apparently 6.16mm across making it 50% bigger than the phone sensor. (Dunno about the sums there, feels about right again).
Let’s see what the chonky camera has …
Canon EOS R100 has a 24MP effective pixel sensor that’s 22.3mm by 14.9mm. So that’s 5.5 times the size of the phone camera. Peek back at yesterday and the focal length is 18-45mm for a 35mm equivalent of 29-72mm. The f numbers on the lens go from f4.5 to f6.3.
What do all those numbers really mean though ? Let’s look at the sensor first. The bigger the sensor, the more light can hit it in a set amount of time. So the mirrorless would bring in over 5 times the light information in a given amount of time, compared to the Pixel 4 camera. The little Ixus sensor brings in 1.5 times the information of the Pixel 4 sensor but …
The Pixel 4 won with the Northern Lights pictures because the Pixel could be set for a far longer exposure time. Yesterday’s picture was over a 16 second exposure, the best I could get from the Ixus was a surprisingly short 1 second. Let’s invent a unit called the Light Wibbly, the Ixus pulled in 6 LWsecs (Light Wibbly Seconds), the Pixel 4 pulled in 16LWsecs with the 4 second exposure pictures. Result, you can see Northern Lights in one camera and can’t in the other. The EOS R100 can do shutter speeds as fast as 1/4000 seconds up to an exposure of 30 seconds. So, bigger sensor, more light getting in per second, much bigger range of how long it’ll take the light in for. The R100s would pull in 22LWsecs with a 1 second exposure, which is how people can get those time lapse videos of the Northern Lights.
And that all adds up to me looking at future Google searches for “star seeing viewpoints Bristol” :-D. The Pixel was just starting to pick up galaxy background pictures … I really, really want to see those. But I’d need to be somewhere relatively remote with minimal light pollution and those areas are tough to find in the UK.
On to the focal length – a big number means that distant objects can be brought much closer. That’s how I get the really zoomed in pictures of the cricketers at Lords, the camera is operating at a really high zoom level. I’m curious as to how the 25-300mm numbers of the Ixus 265 compare to what could be gotten out of the starter 29-72mm lens of the R100 pack. But … that’s one other reason you get the cameras with interchangeable lenses. There’s a lens that goes to 800mm for being able to read the road signs in London from Bristol but that’s also £1100 so maybe not. There’s also a more affordable high aperture one for low light photography which I might have to check out (£200).
Oh gosh. Big yawn. It’s Friday afternoon / early evening and I’m going to be catching up on sleep all weekend. Time for a sum up ? First another link for some optics theories, it’ll help peeking here (linky).
Mobile phone camera – they’re doing an AMAZING job with these. They only have a tiny amount of real estate to work with in terms of space for the sensor and the depth to turn the picture from light into 1’s and 0’s. As you’ll see from the Visual Education link above, cameras benefit from having a lot of depth to focus up the image. Mobiles do a fantastic job with the space they have available and the software is incredible at making the great pictures happen. Cost is minimal because they come with the smart phone you likely have already.
Compact digital camera – they do the best they can with the package available and the little Ixus is a really flexible device. It has massive zoom capability and it fits inside a small pocket. Portability is a wonderful thing but … you have to be really careful about keeping the camera steady and it’s almost useless in minimal light conditions. The latest Ixus 285 is £270 but it looks like they’re being phased out for Powershot cameras.
Mirrorless / DSLR modular camera – they have the size and versatility to get professional level amazing photography but … they’re also way more expensive. I’m still going to get one though because I do enjoy taking pictures of Stuff and sharing them with people. The pack I’m looking at is currently £650 or you could win the lottery and get the R3 camera body for £5500 and multipurpose RF28-70mm f2L lens for £3400.
No I’m not going to be spending nearly £10k on a camera system :-D. That’s actually double what you could get a Rolls-Royce for. (True statement ! Autotrader has a 1976 Silver Shadow for £4,675) I’d actually save a few pennies more for the pretty Mk3 Spitfire going for £16k.
Oh there I go dreaming again. I wouldn’t actually want to drive a Triumph Spitfire (horrifically dangerous suspension set up) but they are a very pretty old car.
It’s been a Week again … Mostly about stuff at work where we’re trying to do lots in a very short time, without enough in the way of resources. So, situation normal there then. It means we focus in on what we can do and defer plans for what we can’t. But getting there can be pretty exhausting, so I’ve been hitting the napping hard after the work laptop gets closed up.
Enough about work though. I’ve got some purchases / upgrades coming up. Let’s get the rant out of the way first 😀
So it came round to car insurance renewal time and it looks like the insurance company (Axa – don’t go to them) has decided to get in on the 2020s trend with hiking prices. For my 2018 Lexus CT (aka Posh Prius), they upped the premium from £350 to just over £600. Wowser. The reasoning when I gave them one of those unhappy emails “How did we do” “I will never do business with you again” was :
A rise in the claims for this type of car – I have over 20 years of no claims, how other people drive is up to them.
A rise in the cost of parts for cars – it’s a 2018 car that only just went out of manufacture.
An increase in the amount of technology in cars – it’s a 2018 car that has the same amount of technology in it as it did last year. (Although I have considered getting a dashcam)
An increase in injury compensation and medical costs – I have over 20 years of no claims and have no intention of getting involved in other people’s injury claims.
Incidentally, Axa had good financial results last year with steady growth (I checked them out), decent profits and I think dividends for the shareholders too. It’s not a savage raise in charges because they’re short of money, it’s pure greed.
So … another of those customer disservice emails that acts clever but the only thing it achieves is to lodge a last impression memory in an ex customer who will remember that the next time it comes to do any business that might involve them. In short, it’s one of those emails that should never have escaped the company, like when Novotel nickel and dimed me on a hotel last year. (Incidentally, Novotel denied me access to the car that weekend, the locked secure garage was also locked to me due to me not being provided with the code until check out)
I’m with eSure this year thanks to the meerkats for £360 again. Disclosure note – I went to them, I’ve never had approaches from insurance companies apart from where I’ve had to check a “yes you can contact me” as part of the normal business with them.
Next up is phone – I should be doing the mobile phone update soon. The one I have is a Pixel 4, which has done well over the last 4 years. It’s paid off now though, so I can go for the upgrade with not much cost. Highlights are the camera, which brought those Northern Lights pictures, battery life has been good and it’s blissfully free of the spyware and annoyanceware garbage that was on my Galaxy S7. So I’ll go for a Pixel 8 “soon”. I could hold on to the Pixel 4 but it’s been showing odd behaviour on failed incoming calls and there’s awkwardness on using its hotspot for my second work laptop.
I’m looking more seriously at cameras … I don’t think I’ll have it before Boat Life 2024 in just over a week but I’ll definitely have it for the Lords cricket in May. What am I looking at getting ?
The Canon Ixus has done well, although it has its flaws in poor image stabilisation. The upgrade would be a Canon EOS R100 mirrorless camera. These are a new type, where the mirror that sends part of the image light up to a viewfinder isn’t included in the camera. Means more light goes to the sensor but you lose the optical viewfinder. Which is fine because I haven’t used a camera viewfinder in decades, I just take the pictures using the rear display.
Here come the links ! This one is for Canon’s page with the camera, memory card, lens and bag. (Linky) Disclosure note again – I’ll go Canon because the little Ixus 265 has done very well (except needing to keep it really steady) with excellent battery life and reliability. I’ve not had any approaches from any camera makers. (Us content people have to put these disclosure notes in so we’re not hiding an inducement or ad)
The specifications on the cameras look very much of a muchness. That’s the cheaper Canon mirrorless camera, which means cheaper plastic materials used to put it together. The sensor looks like it’s the same. The trick seems to be in the lens and one thing impressing me about Canon is that they put that little bit of extra effort in to make it easier to spend your money with them. Things like a guide to what all the letters and numbers in the lens mean. (Linky again for the full how to read those numbers guide). I need to get my knowledge up to speed on why all these matter but here goes for the numpty view :
Canon RF-S lens – this is the attachment type, means it’s designed for the mirrorless cameras.
18-45mm – this is the focal length. Two numbers mean you can zoom in and out. Lower number means everything is smaller. Bigger number happens for when you zoom in. (The linky above has pictures included in the guide, well worth a peek)
F4.5-6.3 – this is the aperture size. A smaller number means a bigger aperture, which lets more light in.
IS – this is for Image Stabilisation, so the camera should still get fairly sharp pictures if you’re moving it around. This one has a 4 step image stabiliser.
STM – this stands for Stepping Motor Technology. Most motors will be designed to keep spinning. Stepper motors are designed to go direct to a position and hold there until they need to move again.
Pulling something out of the Northern Lights set :
That’s one of the ones from the Pixel 4. It’s taken from the ship flight deck, looking out aft. You’ll be able to see some light lines to the lower left and in the stars, where the exposure time has combined with a bit of ship movement. For partially sighted readers who depend on the alt-text being read out, the light lines are perhaps about 1cm as I see them on the editing screen, going horizontally and they’re curiously only visible on a small number of the visible stars.
Good to see stars in there too. The ISO level isn’t actually too high in this one. ISO being the exposure sensitivity. The file metadata is telling me the Pixel 4 chose settings of focal length 4mm (so it’s looking at the sky as intended), F1.7 for the aperture, a whopping 16 seconds of exposure time and ISO 695. The phone was on the tripod at the time. Looks like the little Ixus was able to get down to F3.6 aperture and I got a maximum of 1s exposure time out of it.
Being able to get into the detailed settings helps a lot and the little Ixus couldn’t really give those options.
I’d add a remote trigger, for the camera being on a tripod, and a spare battery to that camera, lens, memory card and backpack package.
One thing I’d say though – if you’re doing a big purchase, like a phone, or a camera, or something bigger like a car or a house, be an Intelligent Customer. Research what you’re buying before you commit any money. Sometimes the people with the products make it easy to find out what you’re buying. Sometimes they’ll hide why their product is cheaper than the alternatives.
But the thing to take away is that it’s Your Money you’re spending. It’s only the sales person’s when they’ve done a good enough job of parting you with the money.
And enjoy what you buy ! See you next time folks 🙂
What’s this ? Two posts in a couple of days ? I’m ok, honest. Well, mostly but I’ll get back to that later.
The widget I ordered yesterday arrived and it didn’t take too long (and one lost screw, I had a spare) to transfer my recent buy of a 2TB SSD from its USB enclosure into the widget that’ll see it living inside the case with a much better interface. The old performance numbers are in the last post (haha, that’s me shamelessly digging for an extra click for yesterday’s post!) and I’m happy to see a few orders of magnitude increase in performance. Numbers ?
Set speed to Zoom
So, looking at the numbers and comparing to last time …
Sequential read rates have gone up from the 40MB/s (megabyte per second) hard limit of the USB cable to 2765MB/s on reads and 4345MB/s on writes. That’s much closer to the theoretical performance of the drive, so I’m happy there.
The Randoms haven’t seen as similarly dramatic an improvement but I’m still very happy with 17 and 20 going up to 53 and 170. That’s still a significant improvement.
The Input/Output Operations Per Second have gone up from 4258 and 4913 to a massively impressive 13495 and 41717. That means it can zap backwards and forwards to find the right data before you’ve realised that the system has gone to the drive to acquire it.
The microsecond timer was good already at 234 and 203 latencys and is up an order of magnitude to 23 on the second number (74 on the first). So compare that to the conventional hard disc and it shows that the old system belongs in the last century.
The conclusion I take is that while you wouldn’t get the full performance out of the drive, putting an SSD into a USB enclosure is a perfectly acceptable way of adding a lot of space to a PC gasping for room. I was (mostly) happily running Starfield off the SSD-ina-box and Starfield will be notorious for demanding an SSD and not an older hard disc.
Jargon busty time … The newer solid state device drives are pretty much just memory chips, of the type that hold their state when the power is taken off. They’re ultra fast. The older ones are :
The data is stored on a cylinder of round platters, which have coatings on top that are sensitive to the magnets in the end of the head. The head is on the end of an arm that will move to allow the head access to the full width of the discs. The thing is called a disc drive because the platters are shaped like discs. They’re spun up to usually 5400 revs per minute with faster ones going at 7200 revs per minute. The more revs, the faster the drive can get to the data and the quicker it can pull the data off the drive.
They were fantastic for the early days of computing but … there are a lot of drawbacks to this technology. Earlier drives would suffer from crashes, where the arm and head could contact the platter. That would dig a trench and pretty much wreck the drive. It didn’t happen too much though after the drives would park the head somewhere off the platters when the drive was powered down. It takes time for the arm to move, which means latencies on these drives are measured in milliseconds instead of microseconds. That makes a massive difference, especially with modern PCs.
And they’re pretty slow in pulling the data off too. That didn’t matter too much until around 10 years ago when improvements in processing speed meant we hit the limitations of how we stored data. (And perhaps some shenanigans by Microsoft too around the Vista times, which broke caching of data).
They did see us through a lot of decades though, going from the IDE drive in the picture through to EIDE, SCSI and into the SATA era. Lots of acronyms there …
IDE – Integrated Drive Electronics – the bits that make it go are on the drive and they’re connected up with a 40 wire ribbon cable. You could have two of these on a cable and the “Jump Block” would select between Master and Slave. There needed to be 1 Master on a cable. One really silly drawback here was that the Heads, Cylinders and Sectors values were mismatched between the various parts of the electronics which put an artificial (528MB) limit on the size of the drives.
EIDE – Extended Integrated Drive Electronics – saw an end to that limit through some nifty translation. It also saw 80 wire ribbon cables come in to the same connector. The extra wires provided shielding to stop the signals in each wire transferring over to their neighbours. IDE and EIDE both used parallel or many wires to make them quicker, which was ok up to a point.
SCSI – Small Computer System Interface – was a competing and much superior interface from around the time of IDE. If I remember right, it could handle 8 drives on a chain, was much quicker and because it didn’t have that Head, Cylinder and Sector limit, could handle much bigger drives. But it also needed an expensive controller card at a time when we needed the scarce room and resources for sound cards and graphics and a SCSI set up would add a zero to the cost of a machine. SCSI died out when SATA appeared.
ATA and ATAPI – was the logical side of the interface. It stands for AT Attachment, with AT being the original IBM PCs. From the 80s. ATAPI stands for ATA Packet Interface, where the blobs of data would be parceled up into packets to bounce around the system. Here’s a link about ATA. We’re still using this original system for modern SATA drives.
SATA – Serial ATA – saw the 40 and 80 wire ribbon cables thrown in the bin in favour of one wire to rule them all. Ok more than one wire but instead of all the signals chattering to each other in the parallel wires, there’s just one signal wire. It meant they could crank up the speed significantly. EIDE was limited to 33MB/s with “Ultra DMA” (Direct Memory Access), my SATA SSD goes at between 300 and 500MB/s. SATA was also much easier to wire up than the PATA, the cables go round corners much better than those 40 and 80 wire ribbons.
I’m probably letting the geek out a bit too much there. I did mean to drop a link to the site I stole the hard disc picture from though. Here we are, I’d be curious to hear which you think is more understandable, this site (linky) or my ramblings above.
There is another drive type, the nVME or non-Volatile Memory Express. This was an interface designed for how SSDs, instead of SSDs being shackled to the ATA system from last century. It’s much quicker. But apparently it’s also too new for my desktop machine to handle so the new drive is going to be just games and data. I’m ok with that.
To other things !
I mentioned I’m only “mostly” ok above … What’s up at the moment ? Headaches and a poorly back this week. I think I have answers for my outsides, I apparently have a light tomato sensitivity. Too many cup-a-soups, or pizza and I’ll see the impact on my healing outsides. But it’s not a serious one, I should be able to have the tomato soup or pizza in moderation.
I think the headaches are resulting from my latest pair of glasses. The test was done with a mask on in pandemic conditions, so there’s going to be alignment issues there. I’m sensitive to those, they cause headaches. It’s sad to have to retire glasses that cost £500 (two pairs, distance and reader) but I think I’m going to have to retire them early.
And the poorly back is just … a reminder of an older injury. It should improve but I’ll probably have to look after it for a while. I have the poorly wrist as well at the moment, which means I shouldn’t be testing the Starfield out on the new SSD arrangements … Conveniently, there’s good streams on at the moment so those have my attention.
On that note … to the streams ! Nite all. Hope the geekiness isn’t too weird and obscure this time.
I’m not in danger of going for any serious PC upgrades any time soon, although I did acquire a nVME solid state device disc drive that caused me a little bit of grief. If you remember back a couple of posts, my desktop PC has the following disc drives lurking inside :
It boots off a 500GB SATA m2 SSD, which works very nicely. It just doesn’t have the space for games like Starfield and now Forza Motorsport which each take 120GB. Yep. Chonky.
There’s a smaller SSD in there as well but I don’t use that one any more, just haven’t removed it.
I have two active conventional hard discs, an older 1.5TB drive and a newer 3TB drive. That’s where the games and the multitude of memes go. It’s actually a bit of an accident that they’re both active, I copied the contents over but forgot to update the linking of one of the drive partitions.
(A partition is where you split up the drive into sections. It used to be handy in older times, not so useful now, plus it’s how you would split up Windows and Linux installations)
And then there’s the 2TB fast SSD hanging out the back of the machine inside a USB enclosure. It works much better for Starfield, which is much more playable on that drive. It’s still got issues but not nearly as many as if you try and play it on a conventional hard disc. What’s the issue there ?
For a 3TB conventional hard disc
These will be results taken last month. That first one is for my 3TB conventional drive. The things to look at there are the 158ish for the SEQ1M (sequential access?). That’s how quickly the machine is pulling the data off the drive. The IOPS is for Input/Output Operations Per Second, giving 166 on reads and 423 on writes. The RND4K is the time in microseconds it takes the drive to start doing its thing. The read is higher on almost 6000 microseconds, the write is quicker at 2356 microseconds. I think the difference there is because on a read, the drive has to find exactly what you want. On a write, it’s just looking for spare space. It doesn’t care what’s in the empty space.
Results for my older SSD
Those are the numbers for my older SSD, which is installed in the correct slot in the motherboard. It’s a SATA disc, which is why the numbers for Read (516) and Write (442) aren’t particularly high. Where all SSDs shine is in the IOPS, where it’s doing almost 10,000 reads per second and 16,646 writes per second. It’s taking 103 microseconds to find everything you want. That’s important if all of your information is either spread into many little files or if you need to find just the right bit of information. Starfield is crippled when it comes to the voice acting, it needs that fast to find thing in order to do voices without massive pauses.
Results for my new SSD that’s in the wrong place
And last one, that’s the results for my nVME SSD that’s currently in an external USB enclosure. It’s doing fairly ok in that box to be honest. It’s seriously crippled by the USB interface (it’s not the fast one) but the 234 microseconds for the Random Read is still exceptional compared to the old style hard disc. The 40MB/s read and write is showing where everything is limited by the cable it’s squeezing the data through. I suspect the data flooding the cable is also why the Random Input/Output Operations Per Second is only around the 4000s as well.
I’ll be curious to see how the new drive does when it’s installed in a widget that’ll let it go full speed. That’ll arrive tomorrow for installation in the evening after I finish up work.
As for curiosity, I did a check on PC prices again last night. But instead of looking at similar devices to what’s in Meltdown, I looked at the Intel options instead. What I noticed surprised me a fair bit but it backed up something I noticed with the AMD machines.
(Jargon busting – there are two competing computer processor makers at the moment, they cost about the same but I went with AMD because they are apparently technically superior now, that’ll vary over time)
The surprise comes from the hardware makers moving on really quickly from older technology. Meltdown is based on a 4 year old Ryzen 5 3600 processor that fits into a X570 chipset motherboard. What’s a chipset ?
UNLEASH THE NERDISM
What are we looking at there ? The green blob is the processor and the chipset’s job is to martial all of the data going around the system. To the left, we have 3 orange blobs talking directly to the processor. That’s for PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) Express lanes that couple the processor to the graphics card. There’s a huge amount of data going through that link. There’s also huge amount of data going to hard discs and USB devices. The chipset comes in over to the right, it handles everything else like your keyboard, mouse and any controllers. It also gives access for the other drives in the system or in the olden days, things like dvd decoder cards or sound cards. Oh ! Chipset is how the sound chips in the system connect up.
Each type of processor has a specific set of chipsets designed for it, usually a good one and a budget one. The good one for my Ryzen 5 3600 third generation of that type is the X570 chipset. I could put a newer 5th gen Ryzen 5 5600 processor in there if I wished to. But … there are only 3 of those listed on Scan today. That means the manufacturers have effectively put it in the bin for the newer model.
It’s the same with Intel, there are only two of the older Socket 1200 Z590 boards available (ok there are more but they are double the price). There are 64 (sixty four) of the current Socket 1700 boards available.
So yeah, the old systems have gone in the bin even though the processors for them are still very available.
It was a curious and a little bit eye opening check realising that yesterday. What does it mean though ? Firstly, you have to be really careful about what you buy. Going for that slightly older 2 year old Socket 1200 cpu will give a massive problem in finding something for it to fit into. It’s been put in the bin for the 13th gen Socket 1700 chips released in October last year.
That’s a fun one for anyone thinking about obsolescence by the way … I might know some of them :-D.
Secondly … if you don’t care about obsolescence issues, then it can mean that it’s a PERFECT time to buy. The processor in my one year old laptop is an 11th gen laptop chip. Acer could well have been giving the big discounts because they needed to dump the stock while they thought they could.
So that’s the lesson I picked up … keep an eye on the market, sometimes opportunities come up because the people who make stuff are shifting from one product to the next and they want to dump the old stuff. Meltdown got put together when it did because AMD had just come out with a very superior product. The Dwagonsong laptop was bought because product change had led to huge discounts.
Quite. I think that’s enough for me for today, back to watching Billietrixx (Twitchy link) while she’s still on and then I’m somewhat grinding through the first book in the Silo series. I’m not quite sure what to make of that, the pacing feels off compared to the other books I’ve been enjoying far more. It feels hugely padded with a lot of character introspection which I don’t think exactly adds much.
We’ll see. Good night everyone, enjoy your books, your music (Dire Straits Making Movies track now – Expresso Love) and the rest of your evening.
And there’s a thought … (adds Dire Straits Alchemy to the wish list)
PS Forgot the feedback thing … The Novotel from Sheffield started badgering me for feedback … so they got feedback. It wasn’t the feedback they wanted. (TLDR – got nickel and dimed on extra charges, go with the competition instead)
Thanks for reading, would you like to share ?
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