Svolvaer and the Trolls

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November 18, 2023

7:10 pm

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Hello everyone,

This could be another race post today, there’s a tomorrow’s activities thing starting in 50 minutes from this point in the post :-D.

Picture. Photograph. We're looking out to the sea in the harbour, over a small fence with 3 notices on. Beyond and above the fence is our ship docked up, black below with a small red band before a mix of white hull and glass above. It is day time but quite cloudy.

We spent Thursday morning in Svolvaer, which is one of the traditional fishing towns on the coast of Norway. There isn’t so much fishing now due to the quota system, which is aimed at maintaining the fish stocks. Not too much fish caught, to balance the rate at which the fish can replenish their numbers.

We had a good little wander around the town, with 3 talks on the cod fishing ways, the fishing industry and the evolution of the nature of the local population. It’s been very interesting listening and learning about this part of the world. And I can never resist a little tall tale as well.

Picture. Photograph. We're looking at a mirrored surface on top of a hill. It is oval, longer vertical than horizontal. There is a circle cut out of the middle. Several figures in red jackets and yellow hoods are standing around on snowy ground. There are trees behind the oval mirror.

That was an interesting and curious little art feature on top of the little hill by the church. Or was it a coastal defence, designed to keep the fisher people from the South of Europe away ? Because Norway isn’t part of the EU, they can set their own rules for fishing limits, which means the fishing people from Portugal and Spain are banned. But if they get too close …

Picture. Photograph. We're looking at a snow covered side of the dock, looking out over rippled seas. In the distance, we see more land with an array of triangular structures on which the cod is placed. In the foreground, 2 solitary boot prints in the snow.

Boom. Not even boots remaining. In the distance there are the racks on which the cod is put to dry out after being caught, a process which takes months. But it leads to preserved cod which will last for years.

We arrived to quite closed in cloudy conditions but things cleared a bit later to reveal some spectacular hills behind the town.

Picture. Photograph. We're looking out over the harbour. The main dock side is to our left, with buildings further to the left. A small pier stretches out from the right. Several small boats are docked up. In the distance, triangular peaks reach upwards to the sky. Thin grey clouds can be seen above the peaks.

Very pretty.

But also time to move on further up the coast and along the way ….

Picture. Photograph. We're looking towards a narrow entrance between two triangular sections of rock coming down to the flat calm sea surface. It's very dark, the rocks are very dimly lit.
Spooky

This is the entry to the Trollfjord, which we reached at just after 7pm. Very spooky, very dark, with the ships lights illuminating the sides of the fjord which were perhaps within 5 metres of the ship on each side. Lovely sight.

Picture. Photograph. We're looking down the side of the ship, with the ice covered rail on the right hand side of the picture. The sea is absolutely flat calm, mirroring the rocks reaching up to the left. They are a mix of white and grey. A search light is illuminating the rocks up towards the front of the ship.

Very tight confines in there. We were able to get in there, turn around and come out again by virtue of the Azipod system the ship has. Instead of propellers on shafts, an Azipod is a propeller that can turn through 360 degrees. It allows the ship to turn in place, which let us get into and out of the fjord.

Picture. Photograph. We're looking at the end of the fjord, with faintly rippled water reflecting the dim shapes of rocks ahead of us. There are lights on the shore to the left and right.

A very beautiful little corner of Norway that we were quite lucky to be able to visit. Oh ! There was also …

Picture. Photograph. We're inside the ship, looking at a low table and a couple of chairs, with a window behind. Outside the window is the harbour side and its lights. On the table is a cup of black coffee and an inviting vanilla cake.
CAKE

Cake was good. Have a great weekend everyone.